The Amazon Basin: Geography

The two great Brazilian cities of the Amazon are Belém at the mouth and Manaus upstream at the confluence of the Rio Negro with the river Amazon. Belém is a long established town that was given city status in 1655. It is a trading city that grew rapidly during the rubber boom years and although rubber is no longer important it still is a trading centre for Amazonian products such as Brazil nuts and wood. It is also a centre for Amazonian studies and the Museo (museum) Paraense Emílio Goeldi should be visited by all those interested in the Amazonian flora and fauna.

Manaus is also a port for ocean-going ships although it is 1,450 km from the Atlantic Ocean. It is the capital of the state of Amazonas and an important manufacturing centre. The city has recently undergone a rapid expansion due partially to economic assistance from the Brazilian federal government, which gave the city valuable tax concessions. From 1890 to 1920, the rubber boom brought great wealth to the city and many fine buildings were erected, including the famous opera house. The city then went into decline until the 1960s when the present boom commenced. The city has grown rapidly and the once graceful old city has now been almost destroyed or abandoned. Modern life in the city now follows the normal suburban pattern of trips to shopping arcades on the outskirts rather than visits to the old town centre. The rapid growth of this city has drawn people from the forest and has resulted in a partial de-population of some areas of Amazonia which in some cases now have populations lower than when the Spaniards first arrived. Along the edge of the Rio Negro the city has fine sandy beaches during the low water season. Manaus has a large airport which is the main entry point for Amazonian tourists. Anyone interested in wildlife should visit INPA which has a small zoo set in a small forested park.

The third most important Brazilian Amazonian town is Santarém, which is situated on the right bank of the Tapajós River, near its confluence with the Amazon River. It is another rapidly growing city but manages to retain more of the traditional feel of an Amazonian town.

The most important Peruvian city on the Amazon is Iquitos. This port is about 3,700 km from the Atlantic Ocean. The city grew rapidly during the rubber boom but then went into rapid recline from which it is yet to fully recover, although the population has recently increased rapidly.

The native peoples of the Amazon have almost all joined the dominant western societies. Over the last 100 years, there has been great cultural destruction and Amazonian Indian numbers in many areas have declined dramatically. This was probably due to disease. The inter-breeding of European settlers, their Negro slaves and local Indians has created a hybrid culture. Many of the hunting and agricultural skills of the original Indian tribes are still retained by these people. The staple food is manioc and the main source of protein is fish. Fish are caught by a wide variety of traditional methods including trapping, harpooning, bow and arrow, throw netting, line and hook and poisoning. Today the most common methods are gill and seine netting. Monofilament gill nets are highly effective and have undoubtedly resulted in a decline in fish stocks in some waters. Commercial fishing activity has recently intensified because of demand from cities such as Manaus and Belem. This has resulted in a rapid decline in the most sought after species, particularly pirarucu and tambaqui. The establishment of the Mamiraua Ecological Reserve is an attempt to address this problem by allowing local subsistence fishermen to continue to hunt in floodplain lakes while excluding the commercial boats.

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Preparing manioc, the staple food of the Amazon. Ruth is stirring the manioc flower during the roasting process. The use of a paddle for this purpose is common practice! The preparation of manioc flower is an involved process because the tuber when removed from the ground is poisonous owing to the presence of prussic acid.
Preparing manioc, the staple food of the Amazon. Ruth is stirring the manioc flower during the roasting process. The use of a paddle for this purpose is common practice! The preparation of manioc flower is an involved process because the tuber when removed from the ground is poisonous because of the presence of prussic acid.

Preparing manioc. The yellow material heaped in the canoe is made from the washed and broken down tubers of manioc which have been pressed to remove the excess water and the prussic acid.
Preparing manioc. The yellow material heaped in the canoe is made from the washed and broken down tubers of manioc which have been pressed to remove the excess water and the prussic acid.

An Amazonian family sit down to the midday meal which includes fish soup and manioc flour. Not only are these the staple foods and often the only ones they can afford, but they are also the favoured foods of the region
An Amazonian family sit down to the midday meal which includes fish soup and manioc flour. Not only are these the staple foods and often the only ones they can afford, but they are also the favoured foods of the region

A recently cleared piece of varzea land which is being used to grow manioc. The picture was taken at Boca do Mamiraua, near Tefe
A recently cleared piece of varzea land which is being used to grow manioc. The picture was taken at Boca do Mamiraua, near Tefe

A typical fish catch. The photograph was taken in the evening and shows the catch made by one man in about one hour in a varzea lake during the low water season. The large fish on top is a arawana
A typical fish catch. The photograph was taken in the evening and shows the catch made by one man in about one hour in a varzea lake during the low water season. The large fish on top is a arawana

Preparing the catch for the evening meal. These fish were caught in a few minutes in a floodplain lake and comprise a range of species. The larger fish with eye spots near the tail are the cichlid, Cichla oscillaris, known locally as tucunaré. Other species present include Potamorhina altamazonica and Hemiodopsis sp
Preparing the catch for the evening meal. These fish were caught in a few minutes in a floodplain lake and comprise a range of species. The larger fish with eye spots near the tail are the cichlid, Cichla oscillaris, known locally as tucunaré. Other species present include Potamorhina altamazonica and Hemiodopsis sp

A traditional fish trap built on the edge of the main stream of the river Amazon near Tefe
A traditional fish trap built on the edge of the main stream of the river Amazon near Tefe

Boys fishing in the traditional manner in a varzea lake. Every member of a varzea family can fish and chlidren learn almost before they can walk and sometimes before they can swim!
Boys fishing in the traditional manner in a varzea lake. Every member of a varzea family can fish and chlidren learn almost before they can walk and sometimes before they can swim!

A traditional Amazonian shelter. Such houses can be quickly erected when required and will keep the occupants dry during the heaviest rainstorm. The builders sleep in hammocks strung between the supports
A traditional Amazonian shelter. Such houses can be quickly erected when required and will keep the occupants dry during the heaviest rainstorm. The builders sleep in hammocks strung between the supports

A typical Amazonian floating house. The structure is placed over huge logs. Such houses are common sights in towns and villages along the Amazon and its tributaries because of the large seasonal variation in water depth
A typical Amazonian floating house. The structure is placed over huge logs. Such houses are common sights in towns and villages along the Amazon and its tributaries because of the large seasonal variation in water depth

Floating houses at the mouth of Lago Mamiraua, a varzea lake near Tefe
Floating houses at the mouth of Lago Mamiraua, a varzea lake near Tefe

A typical varzea village situated along the back of a white water lake near Tefe
A typical varzea village situated along the back of a white water lake near Tefe

Many areas of richer land within the Amazon floodplain have been deforested to make pasture for cattle. Amazonians, like all Brazilians, enjoy beef and the possession of a fine herd of cattle confers high status on the owner
Many areas of richer land within the Amazon floodplain have been deforested to make pasture for cattle. Amazonians, like all Brazilians, enjoy beef and the possession of a fine herd of cattle confers high status on the owner

A traditional Amazonian river boat. This vessel was used by the author for his field studies
A traditional Amazonian river boat. This vessel was used by the author for his field studies

The canoe is the traditional mode of transport throughout the Amazon. When not in use canoes are filled with water to stop the wood drying out and splitting
The canoe is the traditional mode of transport throughout the Amazon. When not in use canoes are filled with water to stop the wood drying out and splitting
 

The ferry across the river Amazon at Manaus
The ferry across the river Amazon at Manaus